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Hi Everyone, I got a new WEMA fuel sending unit and a new gas gauge from a discount marine store. When hooked up the fuel gauge pegged all the way past full. Since we had filled the boat up on the way to the ramp I figured it was just reading full.
After running around for a couple of hours the fuel gauge is still reading past full. After reading all the posts on this site I figured there had to be a short in the ground. I grounded the sending unit directly to the battery with new wire and connections and still the gauge was pegged past full. I then grounded the fuel gauge directly to the battery as well and the results are still the same, fuel gauge pegged at full? I have read all the posts on this site regarding fuel sending units and guages and am stumped? Thanks in advance for your responses.
Re: Gas gauge/sending unit-yes another one The answer is simple - you did something wrong! Let's start at the beginning. 1) Did this boat have a gas gauge before and you elected to replace both items because you had nothing better to do or 2) did this boat not have a gas gauge and you decided to add one? If it had a gas gauge before what made you determine it needed replacing?
If it didn't have a gas gauge before, then let's look at how the system works. When you installed the sending unit, it is very possible you stuffed it into the hole and the float arm is too long for the tank so it is stuck in the full (up) position. So the test will be to pull the sender but leave it connected electrically. Then slowly move the float arm up and down while watching the gauge (key on of course). If the gauge doesn't register at all or is pegged, then you have a wiring issue or the sender is bad. To verify the sender, measure its open circuit resistance. 30 - 240 ohms should be measured as you measure resistance with the float arm up and down.
About 109 ohms at 1/2. If that checks out, then go back to the wiring. Most people make this way harder than it has to be.
Any gauge except the speedometer has a +12 volt connection on it that is active when the key is on. That terminal is usually labeled '+' or 'I'. Connect the same terminal on your new fuel gauge to the same terminal on any other gauge. Same for the ground which is labeled GND or '-'.
The gauge lite wire is connected in the same manner. The metal shell of the sender must be connected to any ground point in the boat which can be the negative terminal of the battery, the engine block, a ground terminal on the engine or any of the ground terminals on the fuse panel. The only connection left is the sender connection which goes to the 'S' (SENDER) terminal on the gauge. Here is how things should look. If the sender measures ok, you know the gauge is ok because it moves so it reacts to voltage.
The job of the sender is to vary that voltage so it is translated into fuel level. If you've followed the diagram it will work. If not - it won't.
In my picture I show the feed from the battery to the ignition switch then to the gauge. That is just one wire that makes up the bundle that runs from the battery POS post through the engine harness to the ignition switch. All you need to make certain of is that the +12V connection on the gauge is active when the key is on. Re: Gas gauge/sending unit-yes another one Doubt it - gauges either work or they don't. It takes 12 volts to peg the gauge so I seriously doubt it's the problem.
There is a situation however, that the sender and the gauge are not compatible, or that the sender itself is bad. The gauge can only work on resistance so measuring the resistance of the sender as you slide the float up and down will validate its operation. I would also question reversal of wires.
This doesn't make any difference on a standard float arm style sender but it may on the WEMA sender.